{"id":13596,"date":"2019-12-16T10:32:51","date_gmt":"2019-12-16T10:32:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/?p=13596"},"modified":"2019-12-16T10:51:32","modified_gmt":"2019-12-16T10:51:32","slug":"richard-cabut-explores-fred-vermorel-for-eyeplug-net","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/richard-cabut-explores-fred-vermorel-for-eyeplug-net\/","title":{"rendered":"Richard Cabut explores Fred Vermorel for eyeplug.net"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Fred Vermorel is a writer of some repute and, well, disrepute if you are a Kate Bush fan, renowned for his individual approach to pop biography (from the Sex Pistols to Kate Moss) and for his jagged ideas of celebrity and pop consumerism.<\/p>\n<p>Rock critic Simon Frith dubbed the biogs \u2018anti-biographies\u2019. Perhaps because their real subjects aren\u2019t the artists they profess to cover, but wider and deeper issues. There is always a twist to them \u2013 free-flowing but full of strangeness and multiplicity.<\/p>\n<p>Similarly, Vermorel\u2019s new book, , ostensibly an account of the 1954 murder of Jean Townsend is far from a standard true crime book.<\/p>\n<p>For fun, let\u2019s call it an anti-true crime book.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Ha,\u2019 says Fred, when we meet in London\u2019s West End, Piccadilly\/Soho way. \u2018I didn\u2019t mean it to be!\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Nevertheless, not only is Dead Fashion Girl a successful investigation into the unsolved murder, it also offers, free of charge, thrown in for good measure, the lowdown on infamous early-60s \u2018Jack the Stripper\u2019 slayings.<\/p>\n<p>Moreover, the book uses the \u201854 crime as a useful prism via which to illuminate the \u2018dark\u2019 corners of the Fifties \u2013 violence, sex, nightclubs \u2013 all the cool stuff.<\/p>\n<p>And, it offers a psychogeographical tour of grimy, seductive 50s Soho \u2013 an un\/glamorous transgressive transmission form London\u2019s sexual and criminal underground.<\/p>\n<p>What is more, by inserting the author himself into the story, the book examines why someone might want to write \u2013 and perhaps read \u2013 about true crime in the first place.<\/p>\n<p>In September 1954, on her way home in South Ruislip, fashion designer Jean Mary Townsend was strangled. She wasn\u2019t raped but her underwear was removed and left neatly by her body. The case was never solved \u2013 the result, it seems, of both a police cover-up and cock-up.<\/p>\n<p>Eight-year-old Fred Vermorel, who lived just down the road at the time, cycled over to see the screened-off crime scene \u2013 \u2018Like an art brut installation with Freudian undertones\u2019. Later, he poured over the evening paper looking for clues. And decades later he still found himself looking.<\/p>\n<p>Perhaps, a certain fixation or obsession is a prerequisite to writing a true crime book of such intensity as this. Even though that can sometimes become problematic. For instance, writer Robert Graysmith\u2019s exhaustive obsession with the Zodiac murders drove him tottering on the verge of lunacy. Other true crime authors have ruined their marriages thanks to their infatuation.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018It\u2019s like the guy who wrote the Jack the Stripper book, David Seabrook \u2013 he was definitely a bit peculiar. I found the book obnoxious because it was trivialising what had happened,\u2019 says Fred about the late Seabrook\u2019s Jack of Jumps \u2013 \u2018A manic trawl\u2026 Seabrook is a tart observer and knows that his obsession borders on the pointless,\u2019 wrote Chris Petit in his Guardian review.<\/p>\n<p>In Seabrook\u2019s defence, sometimes, the most interesting work is carried out not by well-balanced writers, but those with irregular edges who leave a more curious mark. Even so, Fred was careful not to fall down that same rabbit hole.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018I was obsessed with Townsend but I made myself obsessed. My obsession was a performance,\u2019 he says \u2018When I was 16, I was taught at art school by Theo Ramos that you don\u2019t get anywhere unless you become obsessed by whatever you\u2019re doing. But my obsession wasn\u2019t really an obsession. I could turn it off and on \u2013 while I was researching this, I wrote four or five other pieces of work.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>This sort of dissociative role-playing is a useful trick, and has been used by Fred to some effect in the past.<\/p>\n<p>He has written two (anti) biographies of Kate Bush, and in both, he plays a different role. In Princess of Suburbia he is a tabloid journo (the title Dead Fashion Girl is a pungent gutter press parody, of course \u2013 the tone is one of the macabre, voyeurism and sensationalism, of the sort that in its normal context precludes serious attention), and in the Secret History of Kate Bush, he is an obsessed, possibly deranged, stalker.<\/p>\n<p>This prompted some controversy, especially amongst Bush\u2019s fans. Comments on Kate Bush forums include: \u2018This guy is potentially dangerous\u2019, \u2018This Fred guy \u2026 he gives me the creeps&#8230; just a nasty thing\u2019, \u2018May Fred go to hell\u2019, \u2018Nutjob\u2019 and \u2018Over the edge (the edge of sane\/insane that is)\u2019. I could go on.<\/p>\n<p>Fred explained himself in Popular Music Fandom: Identities, Roles and Practices&nbsp;edited by Mark Duffett: \u2018All games I played while researching The Secret History of Kate Bush, an absurdist experiment to see how far the rock bio could be stretched without snapping\u2026 I also stalked the woman, as a phenomenological acting out of that uneasy and twisted boundary between fascination and obsession. I still find discussions on the Internet debating whether \u2018I\u2019 was \u2018really\u2019 obsessed with Kate Bush, as well as allegations I not only had an affair with her, but that while researching her life I ran over her cat.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Fred further examined celebrity culture in the 2006 book Addicted to Love: The Kate Moss Story, wonderfully described in the Observer as : \u2018A strange hybrid, as if a copy of OK! magazine and an undergraduate textbook on postmodernism got into an argument, started fighting, rolled around on the floor and ended up kissing.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>As interesting and amusing as this avant-garde rhetoric and postmodern muscle-flexing undoubtedly is, what gives Dead Fashion Girl its sense of depth and perhaps gravity\/gravitas is the lingering feeling that, maybe for once, provocative prankster Fred cares a little.<\/p>\n<p>In the book he writes: \u2018This has its roots in frustration\u2026 anger that these people got away with it. Her ashes interred by her parents in a crematorium wall. Then her case buried by the Metropolitan Police, her short life extinguished, local reputation trashed, memory obliterated.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>During our conversation Fred affirms, with a hint of softly spoken sincerity,<br \/>\n\u2018When starting the book, there was the thought that a man did this to a woman. I thought I should address this.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018I also realised there was something very suspect about the case.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Vermorel discovered that Jean Townsend\u2019s case file, kept in the National Archive, was embargoed until 2058 \u2013 revised after protests until 2031 \u2013 and that some witness statements had been leaked, others lost.<\/p>\n<p>The investigation into the reason for such extraordinary official secrecy\/shenanigans becomes almost as pressing as the one into the murder itself. Fred\u2019s line of inquiry quickly leads us to, \u2018A cesspit of vice and violence.\u2019 This is centred in \u201850s clubland with its gangsters, bohemians, showbiz celebs and perverts like Jean Townshend\u2019s boss Michael Whittaker, a fashion bigwig, who also organised society orgies \u2013 the type of debauched gatherings involving the highest echelons of society later exposed by the Profumo scandal. Take a bow Snowden, Sarah Churchill and the un\/usual array of libertines.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a fascinating nocturnal exploration of the desperate and the damned, as it were.<\/p>\n<p>Fred also adopts a \u2018wildcard methodology\u2019 for further probing the wider 50s.<\/p>\n<p>Vermorel, whose day job is university professor, recounts: \u2018I went to a party and an academic asked me about what I was working on. When I told him I was researching the 50s, he reeled off this typical list, the sort you would find on the web. I thought, that\u2019s not the 50s \u2013 it\u2019s a 50s, a received version of the 50s \u2013 but it\u2019s not what I remember about the 50s.\u2019<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Soho At Night (1968)\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/XiwvwesBOOU?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>He writes in the book: \u2018The \u2018wildcard methodology is a way of throwing things in the air to see how they might land \u2026 unforeseen sequences and lacunae, micro-events, historical \u2018nonentities\u2019, erasures and ambiguities, and loose ends.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Interestingly, this part of the book is given a section of its own.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Usually, these are the bits that are weaved into the narrative, but they are also typically the bits that the reader\u2019s eye skips over,\u2019 Fred explains. \u2018So I thought I\u2019d do the reader a favour and put them in a section of their own \u2013 and if they want to read a bit of theory and background, they can.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Readers interested in an emotional chart of 50s society, with its misbehaviourisms and uncharacteristic patterns, are advised to not skim or skip this section. It includes: Frigidity, censorship, flickknives (impressions of lawlessness are often measured against an assumed idyllic era which today\u2019s wrongdoings put in the shade with their level of disorder. This part of the book underlines the fact that typically such an idyllic age exists only in fantasy), 50s nostalgia for the 20s and 30s, experiments in mysticism, prudishness, erotica, the pulps (Confidential! Expos\u00e9!), Freudianism, the wasteland ( Jean was killed on a local wasteland \u2013 which assumes the quality of a metaphor for moral desolation and, more, a post-war dystopia), emigration, fetishism, and 50s female archetypes (the busty, brassy Pamela Green or the sophisticated, stylish Barbara Goalen? Fred chooses: \u2018As a kid I would have thought Green was a more desirable approximation of femininity. Goalen was more like my mum!\u2019 The difference between the two women is the difference between Mayfair and Soho).<\/p>\n<p>Fred has a lifelong association with the latter. \u2018Lina\u2019s deli in Brewer Street has been there since the 1940s \u2013 I used to go there with my mum to get garlic, spaghetti, olive oil, which you couldn\u2019t get in South Ruislip,\u2019 he tells me.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018And when I was fifteen, going into Harrow art college, trying to build up a portfolio, I was groomed by a guy who gave me a copy of Rimbaud\u2019s biography because he knew I wanted to be a poet. He invited me to accompany him and his group of gay friends, including people from the nearby US airbase, on their jaunts to various spots in London \u2013 including the Pink Elephant club in Newport Place. I was obviously only a kid, but I think they used to let me in because they thought I was rough trade! It was a gay club, and I remember being amazed by the dykes, sophisticated and beautiful dressers and dancers. The guys I went with tried to get me drunk by putting vodka in my orange juice, but I was too crafty for them.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Inevitably, Soho is a topos of danger, threat and criminality, amongst other magnetic things. Although these days, Fred lives a quieter Soho life, just across the road and around the corner from where we are talking, with his family. \u2018There\u2019s quite a sense of community, we\u2019ve got to know all the traders on Berwick Street market; they all say \u201cHello Fred!\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Despite the building sites, much of the area is the same as it was. There\u2019s still Green Court, which has two exotic cafes, selling pretentious cakes, one sex shop and two brothels \u2013 it encapsulates all of Soho past and present.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018The sex doesn\u2019t bother me. But what does worry me is that it\u2019s all available on the Internet for kids to see these days. I don\u2019t believe in censorship, but I don\u2019t know how you get around that.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>The book was originally subtitled A Soho Affair, which was then changed to A Situationist Detective Story. \u2018That was because of the derive aspect. I realised as I was going around Soho during my research that what I was doing was Situationism in the old sense \u2013 the Debordian sense \u2013 the old guys who used to go in for these ramshackle random explorations, psychogeographical excursions called derives. I realised that was what I was doing without even realising it, I didn\u2019t mean the politics of it all, although the link to the Situationists emphasises that there is something angry about the book.\u2019<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Fred_1.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[13596]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13603\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Fred_1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" data-wp-pid=\"13603\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Fred_1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/Fred_1-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Vermorel has history with the Situationists. And not just in a fanboy or academic sense. While studying French Civilisation at the Sorbonne in 1968, he was actually involved in the infamous May 68 events\/riots, in which the Situationists played a central role. \u2018The interesting thing I noticed,\u2019 he told me in a 1986 interview I conducted for Zig Zag magazine, \u2018and I\u2019ve verified it with other people who were there, was that it wasn\u2019t the actual students who were doing the fighting. Students are middle-class people with a very soft approach to life. There\u2019s no way they would have fought people like the CRS. Basically it was a hard core of Situationists, a lot of unemployed French kids and some Algerians.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018The Situationists split up but the ideas have been absorbed by different things which is healthy. Images and ideas have been absorbed by pop culture in this country, which has radicalised a whole group of people, which when I was young would have been astonishing. I\u2019m amazed that large numbers of 18 year olds are tuned into, what we would\u2019ve called hard anarchist philosophies. In my time students who played around with them for three years before going off to be magistrates or whatever. Now the ideas are belong taken up by people who\u2019ve got a lifetime ahead of them on the dole or in some crappy job. So it means much more to them. They\u2019re really internalising those ideas and in that sort of way \u2018living them out.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Vermorel&#8217;s writing on Situationist theory, most notably in his Vivienne Westwood biog Fashion &amp; Perversity, is some of the most astute to be found anywhere. Via his \u2018insiders\u2019 pique\u2019 it details the sick-to-the-very-soul malaise at the heart of the Spectacle that, as Fred writes, \u2018only took a slogan, a shifted perception, to turn this discontent into rebellion.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Fred places punk as the \u2018fashionable expression\u2019 of that revolution.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s in the Vivienne Westwood book, with his ideas about punk, that Fred confirms his reputation as an original thinker. There aren\u2019t many of those around. They are to be treasured. Not for him the regurgitated narrative that everyone who\u2019s read Jon Savage\u2019s England\u2019s Dreaming comes up with.<\/p>\n<p>For instance, Fred insists that punk was born not of a democratising DIY sentiment, but from Malcolm and Vivienne\u2019s \u2013 high art aficionados \u2013 elitism: \u2018Far from being, as it is so often represented, an attack from below, punk was a snob\u2019s revenge from on high\u2026 At the core of punk was the aesthete\u2019s hollow laugh.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Fred met McLaren in 1965 at Harrow School of Art, when they were respectively 16 and 17 years old, and embarking on a pre-diploma course in Fine Art. They remained friends and comrades for decades after \u2013 it was Malcolm that Fred phoned with reports from the May \u201868 battleground, urging him to come to Paris and join in the fun.<\/p>\n<p>Punk was, Fred writes in Fashion &amp; Perversity, in its style and form of expression, an echo of Malcolm\u2019s suspected Tourette\u2019s Syndrome tics and swearing \u2013 \u2018A way of being a punk\u2026 spastic performance gestures, and confrontational obscenities coded into its performance, deportment and fashion\u2026 I thought it remarkable that the mannerisms of one individual seemed to have proved \u2018contagious\u2019 to the extent that they spread so precisely from Malcolm to the circle around the Sex Pistols, and eventually became a worldwide behavioural rhetoric for rebellion, anger and protest.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Elitism and Tourette\u2019s in the UK! I think it remarkable, too. And fairly believable. As a young punk in the mid-70s, I remember enacting the exact very spasmodic behaviour Vermorel describes.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Malcolm swore a lot,\u2019 Fred tells me. \u2018It diminished as he grew older, which is typical of Tourette\u2019s sufferers. It was most pronounced when he was 17-29. He was ferocious.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Sometimes I dream about him. But I don\u2019t miss him as much as I miss Tony Wilson [with whom Fred also worked] \u2013 he was a nicer man. The world has really lost something without Tony. But with Malcolm\u2026 I do feel sorry for his wife but I feel\u2026 not negative, but neutral about it.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Sometimes we recount stories to liberate ourselves from them. To outgrow them. Fred has released himself from the big presence of Malcolm \u2013 \u2018We influenced each other. I\u2019m now free of my past \u2013 having written about Malcolm and Vivienne so much, it gets tiring.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Dead Fashion Girl, meanwhile, \u2018has enabled me to move beyond my usual zone in some sense.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>That sense, really, relies on the strength of Fred\u2019s self-belief to bend the true crime genre to his will rather than vice versa. He eschews common-or-garden\/common sense interpretation and popular generic conventions and avoids prevailing discourses.<\/p>\n<p>At the same time, it\u2019s obvious that Fred knows, instinctively perhaps, that people like true crime for a variety of reasons, including car crash reading (we can\u2019t look away), natural human fascination with good and evil, the love of stories (crime stories are usually great dramas).<\/p>\n<p>Most importantly perhaps, readers like to see that justice has been done and suitable punishment has been administered. The problem with the Jean Townsend case is that the killer has never been found. A problem that Fred circumnavigated, via tenacious detective work and a big helping of luck (which, as we know, every good detective sometimes relies on), by presenting his own solution to the crime, one that seems absolutely plausible. Reader satisfaction is guaranteed.<\/p>\n<p>But the book\u2019s big reveal is, in fact, not the killer of Jean Townsend. By interacting with the narrative, the author too, becomes a compelling personality in the story. So the book ends up being a story of why the author tells this particular story. And the psychological crux of the book involves the young Fred watching his mother in her boudoir. Every (crime) writer has an origin story, this is Fred\u2019s: \u2018Above all I witnessed the rituals of lingerie: how knickers are stepped into: tentatively, one foot at a time, then riskily seesawed\u2026 shin\u2026calf\u2026 knee\u2026thigh \u2026 up to the suspender belt dripping with ribbons and clips\u2026<\/p>\n<p>\u2018\u2026 All such intimacy, transposed to a scene of brutality and a public arena like Jean Townsends wasteland death, was unthinkable \u2013 travesty beyond belief.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>His mother\u2019s underwear\u2026 Jean\u2019s underwear\u2026 the horror.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a brave piece of writing \u2013 \u2018If you\u2019re going to write something in that vein you\u2019ve got to be courageous and say it all really. Otherwise there\u2019s no point in doing it,\u2019 Fred tells me. But it often takes such bravery to connect protagonists with a larger social arena as well as bury personal ghosts, not through public, but through private, personal revelations.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Have I freed myself?\u2019 Fred, who dipped into the works of Freud in his local library at the age of 13, and who has, in his time, blamed psychoanalyses for celeb culture, concludes, \u2018I\u2019m not free of any problems in any sense. But I feel like I can set my sites on something else.\u2019<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/dead_fashion_girl.jpg\" rel=\"lightbox[13596]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone  wp-image-13606\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/dead_fashion_girl.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"233\" height=\"628\" data-wp-pid=\"13606\"\/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mitpress.mit.edu\/books\/dead-fashion-girl\">BUY A COPY HERE<\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>&nbsp;\u00a9 Richard Cabut and Eyeplug.net 2019<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Fred Vermorel is a writer of some repute and, well, disrepute if you are a Kate Bush fan, renowned for his individual approach to pop biography (from the Sex Pistols to Kate Moss) and for his jagged ideas of celebrity and pop consumerism. Rock critic Simon Frith dubbed the biogs \u2018anti-biographies\u2019. Perhaps because their real &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":42,"featured_media":13602,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[67,60,6,128,117,73,69,61,106,80],"tags":[1495,1496,1497,1493,1494,1492,121,959],"series":[],"class_list":["post-13596","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-culture","category-eyeplugs","category-features","category-hot-plugs","category-icons","category-interviews","category-literature","category-media","category-picks","category-punk","tag-malcolm-mcclaren","tag-vivien-westwood","tag-punk-london","tag-ricahrd-cabut","tag-kate-bush","tag-fred-vermorel","tag-eyeplug","tag-sex-pistols"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13596","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/42"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13596"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13596\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13608,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13596\/revisions\/13608"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13602"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13596"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13596"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13596"},{"taxonomy":"series","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eyeplug.net\/magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/series?post=13596"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}